five years ago, Candolim, at
the far southern end of Calangute beach, was a
surprisingly sedate
resort, appealing to an odd mixture of middle-class Bombayites, and
Burgundy-clad Sannyasins
taking a break from the Rajneesh Ashram at Pune. Now, large-scale package
holiday complexes
jostle for space behind the dunes and the increasingly crowded beach has
sprouted ranks of sun
beds.
Near Candolim
The Candolim has plenty of pleasant places to stay, many of them tucked
away down quiet sandy
lanes and better value than comparable guesthouses in nearby Calangute,
making this a good first
stop if one has just arrived in Goa and are planning to head further north
after finding one's feet.
Nice Restaurants
The Candolim's numerous beach cafes are a cut above your average seafood
shacks, with pot
plants, state-of-the-art sound systems and prices to match. The main road
is also dotted with
restaurants serving the usual selection of fresh fish dishes, with a
handful of continental options
thrown in.
Aguda Fort
Immediately south of Candolim, a long peninsula extends into the sea,
bringing the seven-
kilometre white sandy beach to an abrupt end. Aguada Fort, which
crowns the rocky flattened top
of the headland, is the best-preserved Portuguese bastion in Goa.
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